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Re: [Rollei] Rescuing a Rolleicord Ia

At 11:57 PM 03/15/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Unsatisfied with my pretty decent Rolleicord Va, I've just impulsively 
>invested £15 at a garage sale on a beat up Rolleicord 1a (type 3).  Despite 
>being a bit tatty and smelling of damp, all seems mechanically ok, but the 
>inside of the triotar lens is a bit cloudy/dirty.
>Rather than leave it on the shelf, I'd like to have a go at cleaning it up, 
>if only to run a couple of rolls of film through it to see how they turn 
>out.  Clearly the thing is not worth investing professional time in, but if 
>capable of  sorting out myself, I'd like to try.  It looks like there 
>should be a way of opening up the lens assembly from behind using some sort 
>of wide bladed screw driver - has anyone tried this? Is it a runner, or (as 
>I suspect) will I if I do manage to unscrew the back lens never get the 
>thing back together in perfect alignment again?  Has anyone any better 
>ideas, or should I just retire the poor thing and spend more time with 
>cameras that work?
 Triotars are probably assembled about like Tessars. The smaller ones have
front retaining rings which thread off. This is the thing with the name and
type of lens written on it. 
  They are removed with a tubular tool, like a bottle cap, of the right
size, with a rubber ring on it. Even double stick tape will sometimes work,
but an O ring sanded so that it has a gripping surface works better.
Sometimes the threads are painted over. The paint can be removed with a
cotton swab and Acetone. Once the retaining ring is off the front element
can be lifted off with a bit of sticky tape. You can also just turn the
lens upside down and tap it lightly on the edge with a pencil. 
  The internal haze will come off with any standard lens cleaner or with
dry Isopropyl alcohol, which is in general a good optical cleaner. Once
clean blow out the inside with canned air and re-assemble. Use a bit of
sticky tape to hold the front element and guide back into place. The
clearances are practically non-existent so its imporatant to get the lens
in square. If forced it will be chipped. The air inside the cell needs to
leak out as the lens is replaced. Just give it a little time to settle.
Again gentle tapping along the edge of the cell will help. 
  Larger lenses, like the 135mm, f/4.5 Tessar once used on Speed Graphics,
have a back cap which unscrews easily (although gripping it with a rubber
glove may help). In this arrangement it is the center element which can be
  It is amazing how hazy and dirty lenses can get inside. Some look like
they have been held over a candle. Fortunately, all this stuff seems to
come off easily without any subsequent damage to the glass. A little haze
can cause an amazing amount of loss of contrast, much more than the visual
examination would suggest. 
- ----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA