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RE: [Rollei] Removing the 3.5F front cover (was non-rollei accessories)
- Subject: RE: [Rollei] Removing the 3.5F front cover (was non-rollei accessories)
- From: Richard Knoppow <dickburk >
- Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 08:52:54 -0700
- References: <B7C3D9D1.3A93%pkkollas >
At 05:27 PM 09/12/2001 +0200, you wrote:
>Sorry to hear that you couldn't fix the selftimer but separate ones that you
>can screw on the shutter release can easily be found. For me, it's the sort
>of items that will be left at home when I need it, like cable release, bean
>bags, sometimes the camera :( But it may work for you.
>
>I remember having seen in the exploded views in the Technical Report that
>you actually don't need to remove the rear cell in order to have the
>complete shutter and lens remove from the lensboard. It's locked by a ring
>but you probably need a similar spanner for it. Then, I think you'll only
>get the ring that cocks the selftimer and not the internal parts of the
>shutter which I think that cause the problem.
>
>
>Siu Fai
>
>
I suspect that if the cover of the shutter is removed a little naptha
(lighter fluid) applied carefully will unstick the timer. The tiniest
amount of fine oil on the gears may do the same thing. The self timer is
typically not used very often so it more likely to suffer from gummy
lubricant than the speed retarder.
I would suggest getting a copy of the reprinted Compur shutter manual
before doing much with these shutters. They are tricky since accidently
bumping a lever out of place will jam the thing and it may be difficult to
know where it belongs.
It may also be helpful to take Polaroids of the shutter as you get into
it so as to have a record. Don't fool yourself that you will remember where
things go, you won't.
Giving the shutter a propper cleaning really requires removing it from
the camer and doing some disassembly. I would practice on some less
valuable camera than an F before undertaking this. Again, for a camera of
this quality and value the cost of a CLA by an expert is easily justified.
I don't know what lubricants Harry Fleenor or Martin at Marflex uses but
modern lubricants are much more resistant to oxidation and gumming than
traditional ones, so the life of a CLA is pretty long. In terms of cost of
repair vs: camera lifetime its pretty cheap.
I am constantly amazed at the quality of Rollei design and the amount of
thought that went into them. The construction ane material quality is also
excellent, which is why they continue to be supportable at rather advanced
ages.
If you are interested in learning Rollei repair just for fun I suggest
getting a beater Rolleicord or MX Rolleiflex. They are complicated but not
so much so as the later models. Rolleicords are fairly simple because they
don't have the automatic threading mechanism and have a simpler winding
mechanism. Get the reprint Rollei book I mentioned in an earlier post and
Claus Prochnow's _Rollei Report_. I also have National Camera repair books
but can't remember how I got them now. Even Ed Romney's books are useful
(although he is a little too much into bending things) and I think his
current stuff looks less like it was made up by a ten year old.
I like working on cameras although I would never undertake it as a
profession. I have profound respect for people like Harry Fleenor who have
such a magnificant standard of craftsmanship in addition to their
knowledge. It takes a steady hand and a relaxed attitude, plus a great deal
of carefullness but it is a joy to work on something as well designed as a
Rollei or old Leica (I can do screw mount models). Having something I have
worked on gives me a special sense of its really belonging to me, perhaps
partly because I can appreciate whats going on under the skin.
- ----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk
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